Before heading to Darfur last week I treated myself to a swim. Not any old swim you understand, but a dip in the Rotana swimming pool. This is a new hotel in Khartoum that seems to be designed specifically to mop up those generous per diems paid to United Nations workers. It was also where George Clooney was rushed to after coming down with diarrhoea earlier this year during his 24-hour trip to Darfur. (Incidentally, still no word on my Clooney “put up or shut up” challenge, although he has at least now been to Darfur, albeit briefly.) Anyway, I’m wondering whether this is the most expensive swimming pool in Africa. It cost me $40 – $60 at the weekend – and they don’t even give you nice shower gel.