March 28, 2008

Breakfast in Khartoum

The coffee tastes like coffee, the croissants are flaky on the outside and soft on the inside, and the wifi is running at the speed of light. But this isn’t breakfast in Kenya – where the coffee was probably grown and which is setting itself up to be an internet hub for East Africa. This […]

March 17, 2008

Portrait of Darfur

General Rokero commands Jebel Mara for the Abdul Wahid faction of the Sudan Liberation Army Opheera McDoom, the Reuters correspondent in Khartoum, wrote recently of her frustration at the lack of progress towards peace in Darfur. “I have been writing on Darfur for 4 1/2 years. More than ever, I am wondering how much difference […]

March 3, 2008

The janjaweed are back

One of the 2006 George Polk Award winners, Lydia Polgreen, writes about a new scorched earth policy in the Darfur region of Sudan for the New York Times. The newspaper includes another excellent multimedia photoreport this time by Lynsey Addario.

February 28, 2008

The Great Pastry Crisis

Deeply disturbing news arrives from Sudan. President Bashir has ordered a boycott of all things Danish in response to those cartoons of the prophet Mohammed being republished in newspapers over there. I suspect the Danish bacon industry will be unconcerned. But wait. What about the pastries served at Ozone, possibly the best coffeeshop in the […]

December 3, 2007

Bearing up in Khartoum

Take one teacher, one teddy bear and three British journalists. Throw them into the centre of Khartoum, keep the hacks high on lemon soda, a teacher jailed, the local media rabid, the diplomats flustered and what’ve you got? A day or two in the life of foreign correspondents, Rob Crilly, Andrew Heavens and Amber Henshaw, […]

August 30, 2007

Khartoum cuisine

As far as I recall Khartoum didn’t figure in the World’s Best 50 restaurants this year and with highlights like the above it’s no wonder. Frontline Club social network member Andrew Heavens takes the cork off the Sudanese dining scene after his recent move from Addis Ababa, where dinner time was somewhat different.

July 20, 2007

Fleeing Darfur

We had been sitting in the tiny, twin-engined aircraft for three hours when I first caught sight of the rugged green peaks of the Nuba Mountains. The plane fell abruptly through a hole in the black sky.  Mike the pilot jabbed a finger through the left-hand window. ‘It’s your lucky day! There’s cloud all around, […]