Hodan Yusuf-Pankhurst on Somalia

How the People Lost their Fear of the Pharaoh, but is the Regime Getting Away With Murder?

2011-02-12T13:37:00Z

Hosni Mubarak is gone, ousted by a revolution. As someone who lived in Egypt and can testify to the brutality of the Mubarak regime, I celebrated with the millions of people who were glad to see the back of him. These picture galleries from the New York Times and photojournalist Matthew Cassell show powerful images of protesters in their pain during the protests and also in their jubilance after Mubarak’s departure.

It wasn’t just Egyptians in Tahrir [Liberation] Square or Egyptian cities such as Alexandria who for the last 18 days supported the revolution in any way they could, people all over the world showed solidarity barely sleeping, smartphones and laptops plugged in at all hours, both virtually and literally, echoing the chants “IrHal [Leave]” or “Al Sha’b yureed isqat al nizaam [the people want the downfall of the regime]”. People have resisted Mubarak for 30 years but this was always suppressed and repressed with arbitrary arrest, torture and killings, keeping the people under constant fear. This fear was then conquered in Tunisia and then in Egypt. The question on the lips of many is who will be next? Will it be Yemen or perhaps Algeria?

It was the people who ousted this well rooted and arrogant dictator despite his support from the US, UK and European governments in a matter of days. Despite his tyranny of the Egyptian people and even in some instances against their own citizens, they continued to prop him up funnelling billions of dollars of support into his army and regime. Some like Tony Blair even took the liberty of free holidays at a bill footed by the Egyptian people. Then in Tunisia, the people showed they lost their fear of the tyrant. The Egyptians took inspiration from this tremendous success story and took to the streets. People from all cross-sections of Egyptian society came together and stood their ground. They withstood beatings, arrest, torture, being run over, killed and yet they still poured into the streets. It took 18 days to oust the man who for 30 years ruled with an iron fist. But the people were calling for the ‘fall of the regime’ not just Mubarak. The regime is still in place.

Omar Suleiman, the king of rendition was himself the one who announced Mubarak’s resignation less than 24 hours after Mubarak refused to leave. If Mubarak’s family fortunes are being questioned, his assets suddenly frozen and his oppression against the people well documented, then this should place Vice President Suleiman in the position of consiglieri of the Mubarak syndicate. Con·si·glie·ri (-r) An adviser especially to a leader of an organized crime syndicate. He negotiates on his behalf but somehow manages to keep his hands clean. Though the Vice President post may have ‘gone’ on a technicality, Omar Suleiman is still a member of the military security council. As in Somalia when the dictator Siad Barre was ousted and later died in exile, the people were left with mixed emotions. On the one hand there is elation and joy that the oppressive ruler is no more, but this is tempered by the worry of what is around the corner. It is also mixed with the regret that these rulers are getting away with murder, torture, and abuse of rights.

Who will be held to account for the deaths of the over 300 people who were killed in the last 18 days? What about the political prisoners? What about those living in abject poverty? Who will be held to account while Mubarak takes an extended holiday in Sharm el Sheikh and the rest of his regime remain in power? Is the army really innocent of Mubarak’s crimes, even the most recent ones? Field Marshall Hussein Tantawi is the man in charge today but he has been the country’s defence Minister for 20 years. What is so fresh about Mubarak’s old clique? Nothing. But what is refreshing is to witness oppressed people rejecting oppression without guns and disunity and interestingly even without clear leadership.

The US tried to micromanage Mubarak’s exit strategy closely instructing the Army and trying to convince Egyptians of its own definition of an ‘orderly transition’. The speed of events sweeping the Arab world will strike a new fear, but this time in the hearts and minds of the Western governments who have for too long relied on their brutal allies to serve their own interests.

The protesters chanted “Silmiya, Silmiya” in their protests especially to calm angry protesters when they had managed to got hold of police officers and the violent pro-Mubarak ‘thugs’. There was an irony in Obama quoting this ‘moral force’ in his speech, if only US foreign policy in the Mid East and AfPak reflected that same sentiment. The role of both traditional and social media in this revolution deserves much credit. Especially praiseworthy is the role played by Aljazeera. Regardless of the Egyptian government lockdown on the Internet, phones and especially the Aljazeera network, they were so effective at getting the truth out, Suleiman in his menacing speech even ordered the people to Go home and stop watching the satellite TV. Don’t listen to them, listen to your conscience, he said. They did listen to their conscience, and for the first time, without fear of the Pharaohs.

Somalis, Saracens and their Secret Donor

2010-12-21T02:41:11Z

What do six Russians, two South Africans, the Ugandan President’s brother, a private security firm, a former CIA officer, and a senior ex-US diplomat all have in common? Somalia and its semi-autonomous regions of course! The British registered private security firm Saracen International is currently training over 1000 militia men in Somalia’s Puntland region as was reported in an exclusive by the Associated Press. The firm is now also in negotiations with Somalia’s TFG [Transitional Federal Government] to train a second unit of 1000 strong militia.

The project is apparently funded by an unknown donor country and employs the services of Pierre Prosper, the ambassador-at-large for war crimes issues under the previous US administration and Michael Shanklin, who was the CIA’s deputy chief of station in the Somali capital 20 years ago.

The East African reported a link between Saracen and General Akandwanaho, nick named Salim Saleh, who is not only President Museveni’s brother but also a senior government advisor. This detail is of particular interest since Uganda heads AMISOM [African Union Mission in Somalia]. The African Union was also reportedly unaware of Saracen’s activities which could have serious security implications.

This is a promotional video available on YouTube showcasing some of Saracen's products:

In a further development, a plane was seized at Hargeisa airport by the Somaliland authorities after apparently landing without authorisation. It was reportedly carrying military supplies en route to Puntland. Somaliland's Interior Minister, Mohamed Gabose, told reporters the cargo plane was in violation of the international arms embargo on Somalia which was imposed in 1992 by the UNSC [United Nations Security Council].

Initially all eight crew members, six Russians and two South Africans were being investigated. The South African nationals were reportedly going to be charged with falsely posing as journalists. In a surprising twist, authorities in Somaliland have released the South African nationals. Deputy Attorney General of Somaliland Adan Hero-dhiiq held a press conference in Hargeisa in which he said there was no evidence against the two South Africans. He added the two were journalists working for an American television station. However, the Deputy Attorney General said the six Russian nationals will face prosecution.

Somalia though associated with conflict and humanitarian catastrophes over the last two decades has in fact vast resources of yet unexploited natural energy reserves including uranium. This makes the strategic Horn of Africa of economic as well as geopolitical value to competing interests, nations and corporations. Meanwhile plight of the 1.5 million internally displaced Somali refugees continues in the backdrop to the lucrative and secretive worlds of private security and conflicts.

Book Review: Little Bunch of Madmen - Elements of Global Reporting

2010-11-23T14:33:46Z

I got a copy of Little Bunch of Madmen to review for the Frontline Club amongst others on the 1st of October but have since found myself reading, and unable to put it down. It is quite compelling and ever so useful. It has since accompanied me everywhere and has become an indispensable part of my handbag contents.

The book is full of standalone gems such as:

“For most stories, good sources willing to talk are all over the place. You simply have to find them. Then shut up and listen. This takes resisting the temptation to play with out wondrous toys.”

“Serious journalism is measured by depth and consistency over time.”

The challenge of journalism he writes is:

“...to get it right within a context of history and humanity. The rest is only process”

The book is comprised of 18 chapters such as “Vietraqistan” and the all essential “Road Kit” and “Staying Alive”.

The author, Mort Rosenblum, is a seasoned journalist who has seen and reported from his fair share of conflicts. His passion for the field is clear in his writing. Towards the end of the book there is a chapter on “Readings for the Road” which encourages journalists to study history of the places and conflicts as well as history of journalism. Then there is a small appendix for the busy journalist simply called “Mort’s Rules” and consists of seven rules of global reporting each followed by a brief description. They are both concise and insightful:

1.      See it for yourself.

2.      Find your fixer.

3.      Think particular, not general.

4.      To be lucky, be where luck happens.

5.      Check back, keep at it.

6.      Take names; write down numbers.

7.      Show interest.

He follows this appendix with another generous six pages of other resources in the form of books and websites. The book is written in an accessible, direct rational manner but yet has enough anecdotes to bring it to life and a little sprinkle of humour. Whether reporting from Somalia or any other place, I for one will be referring to this book for a long, long time to come and would highly recommend it for any serious journalists, old or new.

Mort Rosenblum will be at the Frontline Club Tuesday 23rd November at 7pm. The event is in association with the BBC College of Journalism. Book here.

Mid-Ramadan in Mogadishu is Just Another Bloody Day

2010-08-24T12:50:28Z

It is the eve of the 15th night of the holy month of fasting in the Islamic calendar, but the families of at least 33 people killed in Tuesday’s attack will be mourning rather than feasting.

Al-Shabab gunmen disguised as government forces stormed the Muna hotel close to the presidential palace and opened fire. One of attackers then blew himself up inside the hotel killing at least 33 people including six MPs.

The AU deputy special representative for Somalia, Wafula Wamunyinyi, announced on Monday that hundreds of additional troops began arriving on Friday to bolster the 6,000 AU forces that supports the Somali government.

This latest surge in troops was met with the new offensive from Al-Shabab after a spokesperson said on Monday the group was declaring a "massive war" on the AU force, describing its 6,000 troops as "invaders".

According to health officials, at least 53 people were killed in the fighting and more than 130 wounded, with shells fired into residential areas.

Whatever the political motives, the majority of the people dying on an almost daily basis are undeniably the civilians. The same civilians the rebels are fighting to liberate from “invaders”. They are the same civilians the government and its allies are also claiming to protect and serve.

The country has been in a perpetual state of conflict since the collapse of its central government in 1991. The government is reliant on the AU troops for its very existence without which it would be likely to collapse. The presence of troops however fuels the rebels who see them as an occupying force.If this political catch 22 is not resolved soon, then Somalis will continue to witness one bloody day after another.

Livestock and Too Many Smoking Barrels.

2010-04-18T05:02:15Z

As predicted in the post on Somali Victory in the World Cup, K'naan did indeed wave a couple of Juno awards. He won both Artist Songwriter of the year 2010, his manager Sol Guy breaking the news on his Twitter page.

While K'naan fans in the diasporas will no doubt be celebrating, no one in the Al Shabaab controlled areas of Somalia will be doing any such thing. Along with the BBC and VOA music is now banned, and so is the ringing of school bells.

When I landed at Berbera airport last summer and boarded the bus to Hargeisa, the radio played the familiar sounds of Somalia, the unmistakable kaban / Arabic al-oud/ the lute was my soundtrack to the scenery I had longed to see. As each little town came into view and then disappeared again, the music played on. Each time the driver gave backhanders to the checkpoint officers, the music played on. As passengers on the small bus talked and complained of the heat and as they slept, the music played on.

Last night as I sat in a Somali restaurant with family members, the music still played on. Funnily enough each time customers of a different ethnicity came in, the music changed. When Somalis came in the Somali music was on. An East European couple came in and the song that was played next was none other than a certain song by Marvin Gaye. Then a group of Somali women on a night out came in and Somali music came on again. A party of five English customers came in and some R&B came on. Although rather crudely divided into Western and non-Western music, I figured it was the hosts' simple way of saying "Welcome" and settling each diner into the music they presumed they liked.

The lute originated from Arabia and was introduced to Somalia via Yemen. The instrument travelled with Muslims who through trade and the expansion of the Islamic State took their music with them. It can be found in Spain's Andalusia and even went as far as Malaysia. The Islamic opinions on the permissibility or impermissibility of music are varied. Most Somalis follow scholars which permitted music. Religion is central to the lives of Somalis and this was one of the reasons for the success of the Union of Islamic Courts in 2006. The UIC even said at the time they came to power as a result of a public uprising. Very little of what is happening in Somalia now resembles the Islam that the people supported and found peace in after 20 years of bloodshed. There is a certain mindlessness that has consumed the place and the people. Nowadays Somalis are fleeing war only to find an equally harsh life as refugees. Infringements on press freedom seem unrelenting and the banning of the BBC is a blow to what was an integral part of Somali news consumption. Perhaps the internet will become popular to an older generation who have until now relied on more tradition media outlets. Whatever the future for media and music may hold, some parts of Somalia are stuck between a rock and a hard place and between livestock and too many smoking barrels.

Rules of the Game- Detention, Deportation, Disappearance

2010-04-01T21:52:30Z

Rules of the Game by Asim Qureshi

“The Rules of the Game belongs to those who have suffered the most throughout the ‘War on Terror- the victims and their families.” This opening line of the book gave me goose bumps since exactly eight years ago today, the ‘War on Terror’ came banging on my door and since then things have never been the same again. This book speaks to me but it truly belongs to those less privileged voiceless and nameless victims of the ‘War on Terror’ who are still abused, incarcerated, humiliated and degraded. It is a well researched and detailed document that pieces together how the rules of the game have been suspended for a community expanding two billion people globally.

The book boldly states that “Islam is now the largest suspect community ever to have existed.” Everyone I spoke to in Somalia knew exactly what that meant. The experience of Somalis is also well documented in the book and is even used to highlight the far reaching hand of the ‘War on Terror’. “Those on the most remote corners of the Earth suffered directly from the use of profiling based on religion. In the far north–eastern corner of Kenya, refugees from Somalia were interned when Ethiopians attacked the Union of Islamic Courts…These Somalis have been in a refugee camp for seventeen years and had no tangible links to Somalia– and yet Kenya placed them under internment…In the words of the Somalis themselves, they felt as if they were in Guantanamo Bay because they were Somali Muslims.”

The aim of Asim Qureshi’s book is to present the stories of those who have been personally affected by the ill-conceived reaction to the terrorist threat of the US and her allies. He argues that the ‘War on Terror’ cannot be seen as ‘individual acts separate from one another…rather they must be seen as pieces of a jigsaw puzzle, which when placed together in their correct positions produce an holistic picture.”

The book is dedicated to named children and reads, ‘This book is written in the hope that your world is safer than ours.’ It also ends with the same sentiment of hope. “Counter-terrorism measures will never work as long as they continue to be reactionary and devoid of understanding of the group that they seek to tackle…by trying to understand the perspectives of both sides, there is the hope that there can be dialogue, and with that hope comes the hope for change.” This last analysis has been proven right even with the UK Government’s Prevent Strategy that has now been recognised by a cross-party committee of MPs to have not only failed but also backfired.

I share this hope for change and especially the hope for the future generation of young Muslims who are currently growing up in uncertain, frightening, and hateful times. For the last few years I have been volunteering in mediation and conflict resolution. I have recently started studying for a postgraduate degree in the same field. If I have learned anything from my experiences and my studies, it is that while conflict can present opportunities for positive change without addressing the root causes, the vicious cycles can go on and become intractable.

Cageprisoners is a human rights organisation to raise awareness of the plight of War on Terror detainees and prisoners. They are always looking for volunteers who can help with research or even writing to detainees. If you can help their cause in any way please do contact them. Follow them on Twitter.

The author Asim Qureshi, is trained in law and is currently the Senior Researcher for Cageprisoners. At April's First Wednesday Frontline Club will be looking at the "War on Terror": Following the suicide bombings in Russia on 29 March. Asim Qureshi will be taking part in the second part of the discussion examining the "war on terror".

Book here.

The Rules of the Game is available for sale via Hurst publishers and on Amazon.

Somali Victory at the SA World Cup

2010-03-06T21:52:14Z

In recent years Somalia has often made the headlines for all the wrong reasons. Piracy, poverty and lawlessness have cast a long shadow over the Horn of Africa. Two generations of Somalis have been scattered forming a diasporas across the world. Many still live in refugee camps in Ethiopia, Yemen, Kenya and as far away as South Africa. In South Africa, those refugees found themselves on the receiving end of xenophobic attacks. This has made their plight in the country more difficult and uncertain.

Somalis have always eyed sports events closely and in the Beijing Olympics were just happy to be there and to wave a flag. There seems to be a need for recognition, seeking validation that the place still exists in the eyes of the international community.

The World Cup is coming to South Africa and it needed a unifying and inspiring anthem. A song written by a son of Somalia and a survivor of its troubles was most suited to feed that sense of hope. K’naan, a Somali born Canadian musician was approached by sponsors to do the anthem and he obliged. Interestingly he had already written the song Waving Flag, it was the last song he wrote on his Troubadoure album. The song is melancholic and speaks of troubles and loss but always had the potential for being tweaked to inspire. Coca Cola, the World Cup sponsors, approached him and told him they wanted someone who could represent the African continent and not shy away from being vocal on its behalf. This was before they even knew about the song.

I met K’naan and his manager Sol Guy when he was on tour in London last May. Back then the whispers of the Coca-Cola sponsorship anthem had just begun. K’naan was back in London in transit last month en-route to Mozambique when I met up with him again. On both occasions he was most generous with his time. We spoke of his recent trip to Somaliland and how it has been instrumental in inspiring his music. He described his trip as necessary and as a ‘key to an artistic lock’ that hehad come up against.

During his recent travels across 18 African countries, K'naan saw that Africans “no matter the scenario, the difficulty, the hope and the beauty, ...always expressed it through love …and music”. He is determined to make music to that feeling [of hope] and not just produce a “soundtrack to difficulty”.

Some have criticised the choice and argued that a 'real' African pop song should have been written and recorded on the continent itself. It should make no difference where it was written. If the diary of genocide survivor was published in Europe or North America it would not detract from the authenticity and the credentials of that survivor's story. By the same token music written by a Somali artist enriched by his own experiences is a real African pop anthem giving real hope to real people, not least South Africans of Somali origin.

K’naan has been nominated for 3 Juno Awards [Canada’s answer to the Grammy’s] and the ceremony takes place on April 18th 2010. I have a sneaky suspicion he will be waving not a flag but a Juno, or two, or maybe even three.

Picture Courtesy of KnaanMusic.com

Being a Journalist is not Enough

2009-09-10T16:57:19Z

The rescue of kidnapped New York Times journalist Stephen Farrell is a stark reminder of the dangers of reporting from the frontline in places like Afghanistan, Iraq and Somalia where Amanda Lindhout and Nigel Brennan are still held hostage one year on.

Although Mr Farrell was rescued today by NATO forces, his colleague, journalist and interpreter Sultan Munadi and two other Afghan civilians were killed. One of the British commandos involved in the rescue was also killed. Mr Farrell was kidnapped on Saturday 5^th of September with his Afghani interpreter Mr Munadi, whilst reporting on the NATO air strikes that targeted hijacked fuel tankers killing up to 125 people. They were kidnapped and taken from a village near Kunduz and held for four days before the NATO rescue operation freed only one of the two journalists.

Stephen Farrell is a committed journalist who takes all necessary precautions when reporting from such danger zones. He also has a great amount of respect for the people and the cultures he reports on. He previously reported from Iraq for the London Times and was well aware of the dangers faced by foreign journalists and their local staff. In April 2004 he was kidnapped near Fallujah in Iraq. He was released on the same day having negotiated his way out. He and his colleague were unharmed and there was no armed rescue, no bloodshed.

The family of Sultan Munadi, a 34 year old father of two young sons, will sadly be reeling from the consequences of this day forever. Mr Munadi had worked regularly with news organizations, and was also studying for a master’s degree in public policy in Europe. He had briefly returned to Afghanistan and resumed his journalism work. In his first and sadly last post for the New York Times three days before he was kidnapped, Mr Munadi said he would never leave Afghanistan permanently.

“Being a journalist is not enough; it will not solve the problems of Afghanistan. I want to work for the education of the country, because the majority of people are illiterate… I am really committed to come back and work for my country.”

Mr Farrell described seeing his colleague’s body during the rescue. "He was lying in the same position as he fell. …That’s all I know. I saw him go down in front of me. He did not move. He’s dead. He was so close, he was just two feet in front of me when he dropped." Mr Farrell blogged his account for the New York Times AtWar Blog which he runs. He said he did not know whether the shots killing Mr Munadi had been fired by their rescuers or the kidnappers.

Mohammed Nabi, owner of the house which was raided, told Reuters that the troops left with the westerner, but not his Afghan colleague. His body was found outside the house in the morning. This seemingly purposeful abandonment of Mr Munadi’s body by the operational forces will draw criticism from the local Afghans. The head of the Afghan Independent Journalists' Association, Rahimullah Samandar, has already voiced criticism at the actions of the international forces. Speaking to the BBC, he said the raid showed international forces did not care about Afghan reporters. Samandar also said it was not the first time a kidnapped Afghan journalist had been killed while a Western colleague was freed.

Questions are being raised about the role of rescue operations sanctioned from the top to save the life of journalists. Questions are also being raised about safety and war zone risk assessment. One senior officer has already said,

“…it makes you really wonder whether he was worth rescuing, whether it was worth the cost of a soldier's life.”

Those of us who know Stephen Farrell are relieved that he is free, but that joy is bitter sweet and mixed with the deep sadness for the innocents who have lost their lives.

The New York Times has set up a fund for Mr. Munadi’s family . That money, along with funds contributed by the company and its employees, will be forwarded to his family in Afghanistan. For donations outside of the United States, the newspaper has set up a process for wire transfers: click here. If you would like to contribute by post, please mail your checks here:

The New York Times
680 Eighth Avenue, 3rd Fl.
New York, NY 10018
Attn: Cynthia Latimer
Checks must be made payable to “The New York Times,” noting Sultan Munadi’s name in the memo field.

The Frontline Club also runs a fixer fund which was started following the murder of Ajmal Naqshbandi .

Saying the 'S' word in Somaliland

2009-08-18T07:34:43Z

Having returned from a trip to Somaliland, I spent the last few days editing video footage and pictures.
I went there as a nostalgic ethnic Somali who hadn't seen the land I left twenty years ago. Although my family come from Hargeisa I spent many of my formative years living in Mogadishu. This experience has left me with a deep affinity for both cities and a claim to both Somalia and Somaliland. It has been difficult for me to divorce Somaliland from Somalia. I found that in my vocabulary the two are like conjoined twins; two different individuals who are not quite separate. This is not helped by the fact Somaliland remains internationally unrecognised. To the outside world Hargeisa is just a city which lies in the northern part of Somalia and Somaliland is simply its northern region. To Somalilanders Hargeisa is the capital of their country. A country of which they are very proud.

I found one of the most offensive things you could say in Somaliland was to make the mistake of calling it Somalia. When I accidentally referred to the currency as Somali shillings in the market, I was quickly rebuked and corrected that it was Somali-LAND shillings. Although Somalis share the same religion, ethnicity and even language, Somaliland is now for all intents and purposes a separate country to its neighbour Somalia.

In the Somali people's pre-colonial history, settlement and living was primarily a nomadic and pastoral one determined by the seasons and where one's clan resided. The concept of borders was introduced by competing colonialists. Djibouti was formed by the French, Somaliland by the British and Somalia by the Italians. Two other regions were enveloped by Kenyan and Ethiopian borders. The Somaliland Republic reclaimed the old British name given to it and declared independence in 1991. While the debates on Somalia irredentism continue, so does life for ordinary Somalis wherever they reside.

What the people of Somaliland have achieved, dubbed as Africa’s best kept secret, in a relatively short space of time is the envy of others. The country is a fully functioning relatively peaceful and bustling one. The markets open early in the morning with items from all over the world for sale. There are buses and taxis. Operating airports and a visible police force. There are schools and busy cafes. Children play football in the streets but they also beg on the same streets. The global economic crisis has had its ramifications in Somaliland. There is desperation as the cost of living has gone up and the current government is accused of corruption. The country is a growing haven for other ethnic Somalis escaping the violence in Somalia. Across Somaliland there are camps for IDPs (internally displaced people) who depend on aid.

The next posts will focus on the plight of some of those people as well as on the impending elections in Somaliland.

Photograph of of young people playing football in Hargeisa by me

Escape from Somaliland

2009-08-11T09:17:28Z

Xorriyo Airways, which ran flights from Dubai to Berbera in Somaliland, has collapsed. I found this out the hard way. I soon became one of more than 600 people stranded in Somaliland. At 7.40 pm one night the airline office phoned to say the flight had been 'delayed until further notice' and if someone did not bring the ticket to the office by 8pm it would become void and there would be no entitlement to a refund. This is Hargeisa where taxis in the suburbs are hard to come by and buses certainly can't get you from near Mansoor Hotel in Jigjigayar to the downtown city center in less than 20 minutes. My only chance was to get someone who lived near the office to go and negotiate in the meantime.

An official source at Xorriyyo confirmed the next day the airline had collapsed and the priority was to get passengers transferred onto other airlines. The trouble with that useful information was that very few people had been told. Most passengers including those who had already booked their holidays from around the world are still none the wiser. The source alleged that Xorriyo was owned by two cousins who split the company assets causing the airline to go bust. At the peak of the holiday season hundreds of people are stranded in Somaliland. They will probably have to ask relatives and friends to wire them money via Dahabshiil in order to buy new tickets. Dahabshiil money transfer is the unofficial banking system amongst Somalis.

In Somaliland I learned people have to fight for everything. Being obsolete and insisting I had a connecting flight to Doha which I could not miss under any circumstances - seemed to do the trick. This was true, I did have another flight to catch, but if I had not insisted, I may still be there now. I was fortunate to been transferred to Osob Airline but this meant another hot bumpy bus ride to Berbera.

When I got there I heard my flight to Dubai was still stuck in Mogadishu. When it arrived it was carrying several hundred desperate refugees. The airport officials said that they often have injured people with bullets still lodged in them, arriving from Mogadishu.

Although it sounds rough it is a great way to see Somali landscapes and mountains. Several small villages line the way as well as the routine police checkpoints. In one small village we were hailed to stop by a man who was allowed to board the bus and asking for money. He said his name was 'Ali- Gaabe' (Ali the Dwarf) and that we should give him money so he could pray for our safe journey. He was a dwarf and people laughed at his audacity and his sense of humour so they paid him and I watched him hailed the second bus in our convoy to make his quick buck.

Xorriyo airline is registered UK company but has not yet officially gone into administration or declared bankruptcy. The travel agent I booked with in London also confirmed its collapse and said I was very lucky to get out as several hundred people are literally stranded there. My thoughts are with them but desperate looks on the faces of the refugees from Mogadishu will haunt me for a long time. Despite waiting three hours for the plane to arrive, I wish I stayed at the airport for just a bit longer. Long enough to hear the stories those families had tell and what horrors they had escaped.

Photograph of Mogadishu refugees at Berbera airport by me

Stranded in Somaliland

2009-08-03T08:12:39Z

Alarmed by the recent infringements on press freedom in Somaliland I decided to find and join the union for journalists in the country. I applied to SOLJA... No that's not slang for an armed group but the actual acronym of the Somaliland Journalists Association. When I picked up the letter confirming my membership I was surprised to read that I was also upgraded to 'UK representative' for the union. Despite my added security, I had to be careful about what I filmed and who I spoke to.

I soaked in the city life and acclimatised to power cuts and the bleating of sheep and goats on residential roads. Hargeisa has so many stories of its own to tell. It is a city that bears the scars of the onslaught against it by former President Siad Barre. It has also become a kind of haven for people fleeing conflict in the south. There also many economic and political refugees from Ethiopia's different ethnic groups. Many of these people live in squalid huts made out of tins and rags often in contrast to a lavishly decorated villa next door.

Hargeisa seems to be dotted with countless NGOs and charities that do not appear to be operating. The UN presence however is highly visible in Somaliland. The World Health Organisation also operates in Hargeisa but the WHO compound is rather eerily known locally as the 'Twin Towers'. Hopefully this is a reference to the two identical buildings in the compound and not a warning of any kind. I attended the International book fair and found many of the Somali language books sold there several dollars cheaper downtown on the very same day from the sponsor's own bookstore. Each dollar is about $7,000 Somaliland Shillings. My favourite moment at the fair was finding the Somali born journalist Rageh Omaar's autobiography right next to a biography on Saddam Hussein. Omaar was famously dubbed 'Scud Stud' for his BBC coverage of the Iraq war and Saddam Hussein's downfall.

I wanted to stay longer in Hargeisa and visit an orphanage, meet a contact from the University of Hargeisa and interview a government advisor whom I had arranged to meet. But I found myself stranded in Somaliland due to the sudden collapse of the airline I was booked with.

My priorities changed to - How to get out of an internationally unrecognised country where there is no embassy, no refund, insufficient funds for another ticket and no official word on what's happening. My journey out of Somaliland seemed more hectic, more tiring and more confusing than my nostalgic trip into the country.

Settling into Hargeisa

2009-07-25T21:08:20Z

After a long journey via Dubai I landed in Berbera airport and made the 3 hour bus journey to Hargeisa. It was a hot, bumpy but a scenic ride.

My arrival here seems to have coincided with the high profile and deeply concerning case of two journalists who were arrested on the 13th July.

The journalists from Radio Horyaal have not yet been charged.

There is a week long International Bookfair here which I attended. Will post pictures from the fair and more very soon.

Photograph of Berbera airport taken by Sand Paper

Heading to Hargeisa

2009-07-21T13:19:17Z

For the first time in 20 years I am packing my bags to make the journey back to Somalia, a country I called home. To be precise, I am going to Somaliland, the autonomous northern region which established its own local government in 1991 though it remains internationally unrecognized.

There is so much historical context to the troubled lands of Somalia it is difficult to pick a starting point. Somalia has recently been dogged by the piracy that takes place off its shores. There are Somalis who view pirates as vigilante coastguards, while others condemn them outright. There are also those who say, the piracy situation is more complicated than is commonly portrayed in the media. The humanitarian crisis affecting Somalis was described as worse than Darfur by UN officials but it just seems to escalate with the continued violence.

I am going to speak with people I left behind in tw who have since fled the south for the relative peace of Hargeisa in the north. Some have lost children and spouses in the war. They have stories that need to be told. It is that part of the trip that I am most looking forward to. I was fortunate to leave Somalia with my parents and siblings when we left. I expect seeing the faces of those left behind will be an emotional and unforgettable experience.

I am both anxious and excited about this journey. I am anxious because travelling to that part of the world is never easy. I am also reminded of a recent exclusive in the Independent about British-Somalis who travelled to Somaliland alleging harassment by MI5 on their return. I am excited because I left Somalia as a child way back in the summer of 1989 and now I am returning as a journalist exactly 20 years later.

Although Somaliland enjoys relative peace in the Horn of Africa, it has recently been marred by allegations of press freedom abuses and skirmishes. The self-declared republic is in the run up to elections due to be held in September. Interesting times lie ahead.

I will post a second blog entry as soon as I land and get internet access. I hear there is a relatively good telecommunication system in Somaliland so that is good news. I am also planning to use twitter for short updates throughout my trip.

Photo of Hargeisa, Somaliland by Tristam Sparks licensed under Creative Commons